Surface Damage Field Guide
Summary: What's on my paint? Why is it hazy? Where did those spots come from?! We have a visual field guide for diagnosing paint damage.
This field guide is for you to compare the damage on your vehicle to figure out a potential cause and how to fix it where possible. Some can be done DIY, other more severe damage may require professional help.
FOGGY, HAZY, CLOUDY HEADLIGHTS
Damage: Over time your headlights will become covered in micro scratches, which causes the lenses to look cloudy and the light beam to become a little weaker. UV exposure also breaks down the surface over time.
Caused by: Sand. Small rocks. Gravel.
General fix: You can restore headlights with wet sanding or polishing/compounding depending on how bad they are. Check out the Restoring Headlights Guide.
PAINT CHIPS
TINY ROCK CHIPS
Damage: Rock chips usually get through the clear and sometimes into the paint. They’re often on the front bumper and hood of the vehicle, though you can get them on side skirts and doors too. If your bumper is sprayed with these by the hundreds it’s often not worth fixing.
Caused by: Rocks. Pebbles. Gravel.
General fix: You’ll usually need to use touch-up paint then polish. Protect the area with wax until you can fix it. Check out the Surface Damage Repairs Guide.
CHIPS WITH SCRAPES
Damage: Rocks that hit at an angle can cause little scrapes in the clear coat and paint. These got deep.
Caused by: Rocks. Stones. Gravel.
General fix: You’ll need to use touch-up paint then polish. Protect the area with wax until you can fix it. Check out the Surface Damage Repairs Guide.
PAINT CHIP DENTS
Damage: High speed little rocks can hit like bullets and make small dents in the plastic or metal of your bumper and hood. These are usually kicked up by the tires of the vehicle in front of you on a highway. Shopping carts are often guilty as well.
Caused by: Rocks. Stones. Gravel. Road debris. Sharp impact with small point of contact. Hail.
General fix: The dent can sometimes be popped out at a body shop. You’ll need to use touch-up paint then polish. Protect the area with wax until you can fix it. Check out the Surface Damage Repairs Guide.
WIDESPREAD PAINT DAMAGE
PAINT TRANSFER, DENTS, SCUFFS (HIT & RUN SPECIAL)
Damage: Something hit something else that it wasn’t supposed to hit!
Caused by: You, some asshole in a parking lot, that pole that jumped in front of you.
General fix: Some dents can be popped out at a body shop. Paint from the other guy’s vehicle (or pole) that was scuffed or transferred onto your vehicle can be removed with clay followed by a good polish. Scrapes that catch your fingernail can’t be repaired very easily. Check out the Paint Correction Guide for how to polish out defects.
LIGHT SCUFFS/SCRAPES
Damage: Light scuffs in the clear coat.
Caused by: Something hard rubbed against the vehicle like a heel, piece of wood, or another vehicle.
General fix: Scrapes that don’t catch on your fingernail can be polished/compounded out. If it catches on your nail it’ll probably require touch-up paint and then the polish/compound. Check out the Surface Damage Repairs Guide and Paint Correction Guide.
DEEP SCRATCHES (KEYED)
Damage: A deep scratch that penetrates the clear and paint, sometimes primer down to the metal.
Caused by: Keys. A hardware nail. Sharp metal object.
General fix: Deep scratches often can’t be fixed entirely but you can make them look better or nearly invisible with touch-up paint followed by a bit of sanding and polish/compound. Check out the Surface Damage Repairs Guide since key scratches are similar to rock chips in terms of fixing.
SWIRLS
Damage: Circular-ish shallow scratches in the clear coat that reflect under a bright light. You generally can’t feel them.
Caused by: Anything touching the vehicle. Poor maintenance. Neglect.
General fix: Paint correction with polish and compound using a DA buffer. Check out the Paint Correction Guide.
MICRO SCRATCHES
Damage: Very shallow scratches in the clear coat that reflect under a bright light. You generally can’t feel them but they look like faint lines.
Caused by: Anything brushing against the vehicle. Poor maintenance. Neglect.
General fix: Paint correction with polish and compound using a DA buffer. Check out the Paint Correction Guide.
PAINT ETCHING FROM CONTAMINANTS
ETCHING (FAINT)
Damage: Something acidic has reacted with the clear coat and etched into it. It’s sometimes hard to see and may feel rough to the touch after washing.
Caused by: Bird droppings, tree sap, polluted rain, mineral-rich water.
General fix: Wash and clay to remove contaminants. Polish if necessary. Check out the Paint Correction Guide.
ETCHING (CLOUDY)
Damage: Something acidic has reacted with the clear coat and etched into it. It’ll feel rough after washing.
Caused by: Bird droppings, tree sap, polluted rain, mineral-rich water.
General fix: Wash and clay to remove contaminants. Polish. Check out the Paint Decontamination Guide and Paint Correction Guide.
ETCHING (SEVERE)
Damage: Something acidic has reacted with the clear coat and etched into it all the way to the paint. This is what happens if you don’t wash often.
Caused by: Bird droppings, tree sap, polluted rain.
General fix: Wash to remove contaminants to see the clean damage. May require spraying touch-up paint and clear coat depending on severity. Check out the Paint Decontamination Guide.
WATER SPOTS
Damage: Minerals cause white spots that can range from very faint to chalky white on the surface.
Caused by: Water evaporating due to improper drying technique, being caught in sprinklers, etc.
General fix: Wash and clay, then dry the vehicle properly. Wax afterward to prevent future minerals from sticking to the surface. Check out the Paint Decontamination Guide.
WHEEL DAMAGE
CLEAR COAT FAILURE
Damage: Some wheels are clear coated just like paint. The clear coat can become damaged and wear off. It’ll feel rough and sometimes be gray or black.
Caused by: Neglect, physical damage like curbing.
General fix: You need to have a pro refinish the wheel.
CURBED (ROAD RASH)
Damage: Something scraped against your wheels and wore away the edges of the metal.
Caused by: Driving against a curb or parking barrier.
General fix: Some folks could DIY this but you’re better off having the wheel refinished or buying a new one.
OXIDATION/CLEAR COAT FAILURE
Damage: Some wheels are clear coated just like paint. The clear coat can become damaged, which allows the metal underneath to start oxidizing. It’ll feel rough and sometimes form a squiggly or cracking pattern branching outward.
Caused by: Neglect, physical damage like curbing followed by neglect.
General fix: You need to have a pro refinish the wheel.
BRAKE DUST BUILDUP
Damage: Dust produced by the brakes gets caught in your wheel and builds up over time, causing discoloration. It often feels rough and sometimes can come off on your fingers if you touch it. It looks like specks or spots on wheels.
Caused by: Braking. Excessive dust buildup over a short time can mean your brakes have a problem, though some vehicles like Mini Coopers and BMWs just produce a lot of dust under normal conditions.
General fix: Wash normally then use an iron remover to dissolve the brake dust. Waxing can help prevent dust from sticking. Check out the Wheel Cleaning Guide and Paint Decontamination Guide.
BRAKE DUST BUILDUP
Damage: Dust produced by the brakes gets caught in your wheel and builds up over time, causing discoloration. It often feels rough and sometimes can come off on your fingers if you touch it.
Caused by: Braking. Excessive dust buildup over a short time can mean your brakes have a problem, though some vehicles like Mini Coopers and BMWs just produce a lot of dust under normal conditions.
General fix: Wash normally then use an iron remover to dissolve the brake dust. Waxing can help prevent dust from sticking. Check out the Wheel Cleaning Guide and Paint Decontamination Guide.
UNFIXABLE DAMAGE
RUST
Damage: Oxygen and moisture have combined to start rotting the metal through a breach in the paint/primer layer.
Caused by: Neglect, lack of repair to severe chips or body damage. Mazdas.
General fix: Surface rust can be sanded down, then sealed and painted. Severe body rust requires replacing the entire panel. This is a body shop problem, not something that detailing can fix. Check out Dealing with Rust.
CROW’S FEET (PAINT CRACKING)
Damage: Some manufacturers have poor quality paint on lower trim models, which was common in the early 2000s, and over time the paint will split apart in little white lines.
Caused by: Bad paint.
General fix: Ultimately only a repaint can fix it permanently. Filling in the cracks like you would with paint chips can lessen the appearance, but it’s not usually worth doing because the paint will continue to fail.
CLEAR COAT FAILURE (DECAY, UV DAMAGE)
Damage: The clear coat has decayed and is completely gone. The white edges may feel rough.
Caused by: Poor maintenance. Neglect.
General fix: Nope, you can’t fix this. You need to have the area sandblasted and repainted.
CLEAR COAT FAILURE (PAINT EROSION)
Damage: The clear coat is completely gone and the paint is starting to wear away. Metal might be visible.
Caused by: Poor maintenance. Neglect. Abuse.
General fix: Nope, you can’t fix this. You need to have the area sandblasted and repainted.
CLEAR COAT FAILURE (BUBBLES, BLISTERS, PATCHES)
Damage: The clear coat has decayed and has started flaking off the vehicle, leaving paint exposed.
Caused by: Poor maintenance. Neglect.
General fix: Nope, you can’t fix this. You need to have the area sandblasted and repainted.
FIRE/FLOOD DAMAGE
Damage: Your everything is busted.
Caused by: Wrath of God. Flamethrowers. Early zombie apocalypse.
General fix: Funeral.